Scotland Tour

Week One

Day One (Sunday) Home to Tebay

We set off on our Scottish trip about 10.30 am. It takes about a four hour drive from our home, with stops so that could be a bit longer. We are going to try and get a pitch at Tebay Caravan Park at the M6 Tebay services. We have heard it’s a very nice site. The problem is, you just can’t book. It’s turn up and get a pitch. If there's no pitches left, you can stay in the car park which is for camping only. It’s not just a car park. It’s a nice area of trees and shrubs just for caravans, motorhomes and campervans. So fingers crossed we get a pitch. You will have to read on to see what happened. 

We had a great drive to Tebay Caravan Park. It's so nice to drive the VW, cruise control on, arms down on the drivers captain chair and just sit back. We set off along the M5 and M6 getting to Tebay about 4 o'clock after a few stops along the way. But did we get a pitch? Yes, there was nothing to worry about, plenty of pitches. There was nobody else there, just us. A beautiful campsite, set in the woods, great pitches and each one has its own water tap, electric hook-up and waste water drain, a bit like a service pitch. The services are so nice, better than those other service stations that all look the same with their fast food restaurants and very expensive shops.  This one had it's very own farm shop and a very nice restaurant. By the time we got back to the van after a walk round, the sun had come out and was shining in between the trees.

Campsite: Tebay Caravan Park

Day Two (Monday) Tebay to Moffat

We moved on today from Tebay Caravan Park, back onto the M6, onto the A74 and across the border into Scotland. We took the A75 and headed into Dumfries and towards Loch Maben. This is where we stopped off for lunch. Parked up looking out over Castle Loch. After lunch we carried on to Moffat and the Camping and Caravanning Site. This site is set just behind the town of Moffat, so it is an easy walking distance to the shops, pubs and restaurants. We had two nights booked here, plenty of time to look around. After arriving about 3pm we set-up and decided to walk into the town. It’s a beautiful town, no big name shops, just independent shops. Plenty of places to eat and drink, the famous Brodie's Gin bar, The Old Bull Pub and the world's narrowest hotel the Famous Star Hotel, which is in the Guinness book of records. After a walk around the town we got fish and chips and took them back to the campervan, which tasted even better with a glass of red wine.

Campsite: Moffat Camping & Caravanning Club

Day Three (Tuesday) Moffat

The next day we headed out to Grey Mares Tail. Roaring Linn is one of the UK's highest waterfalls, plunging 60m (200ft) from Loch Skeen. Walking boots on and off we went. It's spectacular scenery from half way up. 'Yes' we didn't get to the top but you could see St Mary's Loch and Loch of the Lowes, which was the next stop. This is a peaceful and picturesque area lying in the heart of the Scottish Borders. We parked up along the shores, chairs out and the kettle on in the campervan for a fresh cuppa. We had a nice walk along the waters edges and looked over to St Mary's Loch. People do a lot of water sports here, canoeing and kayaks. Just sitting by the waters edge looking out over the water, ended a beautiful day.

Day Four (Wednesday) Moffat to Cashel Loch Lomond

Up early to move onto Cashel, on the banks of Loch Lomond. We were heading to the Camping and Caravanning Club Camping in the Forest Site. An amazing drive along the A74/M74. They have been doing a lot of logging in this area, lorries one after another moving logs to a different area. We came off the busy road and onto the country roads and into The Trossachs National Park, with it's amazing scenic views across the hills and into the forest. We arrived at Camping in the Forest and received a very nice welcome from a English warden and a Scottish warden. The pitches are lovely on this campsite. Some overlook the shore of the Loch, some are away from the shore line. But you can see the Loch from most of the pitches. We pitched just a little way back from the Loch but could still see the inviting views across the water. We had a walk along the shores of the stunning Loch Lomond and back into the site. This is a lovely site right on the banks of Loch Lomond and is situated within the Queen Elizabeth Forest Park. The Loch is Britain's largest inland stretch of water. Just watch out for the midges.

Campsite: Camping in the Forest Cashel

Day Five (Thursday) Cashel Loch Lomond

A very wet day, it was very windy at night too. It was raining most of the day, but that didn't stop us. Walking boots and wet weather gear on and off we went. Along the shore of the lake and into the wooded area out of the campsite and along the main road. This is a beautiful area of Scotland. The warden of the site had told us that when it rains there, it rains and it rains a lot. We set off out of the campsite, crossed over the road and into the forest. From the forest if you turn and look back over the Loch, it even looks amazing on a wet day. We had the awning up on our campervan, so when we got back that was a good place to hang up our wet gear and just relax.

Day Six (Friday) Cashel to Oban

Early start today and headed to Oban. The rain had stopped. We packed away and went to Drymen first, the next village from Cashel for breakfast. After breakfast we carried on to Luss. Luss is a conservation village of old Scottish buildings. They do a lot of water sports down on the shore at Luss. Nice beach where you can get a boat trip around the Loch. After lunch we set off for Oban along the other side of Loch Lomond past Suie Fields where you can wild camp if you have a tent. Not for us, our tent camping days are over. We drove away from Loch Lomond and onto the far west coast driving onto Tyndrum and Dalmally and past the top end of Loch Awe. We arrived at Oban and our next campsite was Highfield's Holiday Pack In the village of Benlochy. After a long drive we went out to a restaurant for a lovely meal and a few drinks. The Hawthorn Restaurant is located along the road from Highfield and serves great food. Great way to end a lovely day. But we did go for a walk along Tralee Beach opposite the campsite at 10 o’clock and it was still light and very quiet.

Campsite: Highfield Holiday Park Campsite

Day Seven (Saturday) Oban

We decided to head into Oban today. And hit the town centre, some lovely shops plus the normal shops and banks you may see at home. We found a car park on the outskirts of Oban, not too far from the town. And walked in. Having a campervan you have to check car parks for big enough spaces and height barriers. They always seem to be out of the town, but we don’t mind a walk in. We can then look at the houses and lovely well kept gardens along the way in and the odd holiday cottage. Note to self, remember names and have a look at holiday cottages online later. We had lunch and ice cream from one of the many takeaway places. There are so many places to eat in Oban, you will never go hungry. We sat eating our lunch overlooking the port of Oban and watching the Caledonian ferries leave for their journey to one of the many islands. You can get a ferry to the Outer Hebridean island of Barra, Mull, Iona and Staffa all are just a ferry crossing away. We didn’t get time to do this, this time. But maybe next time on another visit to Scotland. After lunch we went onto Ganavan Sands, great parking for motorhomes and campervans. This is a dog friendly beach. Our dog Zac loved this beach, plenty of sand for him to play in and run around. Just a shame he doesn’t like water, all the other dogs were playing in the sea. This is a lovely beach with golden sand and an amazing view towards Movern and Mull. There are some beautiful houses around this area, we liked the look of Ganavan Sands development

Week Two

Day Eight (Sunday) Oban to Scone

Long drive day today, we traveled from Oban across Scotland to Scone. Leaving Oban along the A85 we stopped off at Kilchurn Castle. There is a big car park and a nice walk to the castle. It’s a beautiful drive on the A85, you pass Awe Viaduct, Loch Dochart, the stunning Ben More TrailHead where you can climb Ben More Mountain. Carry on the drive and you come to Loch Lubhair, the river Dochart and the elegant mountains Of Ben Lui and Ben Vorlich. We took a detour and stopped off at Killin and the falls of Dochart. A narrow stone bridge crosses these well-known, scenic falls that run through a charming village. There is a free car park over the bridge but not good parking for big motorhomes. It’s a gorgeous little village with great scenery. Lots of people paddling in the water. Back onto the A85 you pass more Lochs, Lochan Lairig Cheile and Loch Earn. Leaving these places behind the landscape begins to change and there are less Lochs. We arrived at Scone Camping and Caravanning club site late afternoon and after a long drive a nice glass of wine was needed.

Campsite: Scone Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Day Nine (Monday) Scone

Lazy day was planned today after that long drive to get here. So after a late shower and breakfast, we went on a riverside walk. In the info office of the campsite, there were lots of leaflets on walks. We picked up the riverside walk from the campsite. It’s a circular walk so you don’t have to come back on yourself. The walk started from the bottom end of the campsites dog walk. We just had to follow the signs, which said 950 metres to the river along the mowed path, felt longer for two unfit walkers like us. But we looked good in our new walking boots, purchased before our holiday to Scotland. The path takes a fork to the left which takes you down to the River Tay and into the woods. Some of the path was lost, so we had to be very careful not to fall down the bank and into the river. We passed two fishermen huts, and there were a few fishermen trying to catch something. Carrying on the walk we came to The Waulkmill Ferry House, the building formerly served as the East terminal for the Waulkmill Chain Ferry across the Tay. The building is called the Waulkmill Ferry Bothy. If you look at Google, Wikipedia says “A bothy is a basic shelter, usually left unlocked and available for anyone to use free of charge. It was also a term for basic accommodation, usually for gardeners or other workers on an estate. Bothies are found in remote mountainous areas of Scotland.” More history on this can be found at http://www.stormontfield.co.uk/html/ferry_crossing.html Notice the photo of the sign on the side of the building. We carried on walking and came onto a narrow road which took us back to the campsite, passed the Perth Racecourse (There were no races on during our stay) and through a lovely copper beech tree lined road and back to the campsite for a well earned drink, or two.

Day Ten (Tuesday) Scone to Lauder

Still in Scotland, we traveled down to Lauder today. A late start to the day, not too far to drive only one and half hours on the road. From Scone we got onto the M90 which takes you nearly all the way and around Edinburgh. But before that we crossed the Queen Ferry Bridge which is alongside the iconic railway suspension bridge, The Forth Bridge in it’s red colour looking very impressive. We kept traveling down and arrived in Lauder around lunch time. Had a great welcome by the lady warden of the Lauder Camping and Caravanning Club Site. This is a lovely little site. So peaceful. We set up and had lunch. This site is well looked after and all by this one lady. After nearly two weeks away, it was a good time to catch up on some washing and a lazy afternoon. Quick fact about Lauder, The former Royal Burgh of Lauder is a town in the Scottish Borders in the historic county of Berwickshire. On the Southern Upland Way, the burgh lies 27 miles southeast of Edinburgh, on the western edge of the Lammermuir Hills. At the bottom of the road to the campsite there is The Carfraemill Hotel. An old coaching inn and they have a great food menu. You can even order a takeaway and take it back to the campsite. So we just had to do this. We both went for the Chicken Schnitzel in a Lemon and thyme crumb, dressed salad and string fries. And there was loads of food in four big boxes. Plus we had to order a dessert, Baked New York Cheesecake with blueberry syrup and fresh whipped cream. Oh, it was so good. Cup of coffee and time to rest after a big meal.

Campsite: Lauder Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Day Eleven (Wednesday) Lauder

We went into the village of Lauder, only a small village of lovely shops. No big chain stores, little shops selling everything you need. Delightful tea shops, coffee shops and a bakery selling some lovely looking cakes and a great smell of fresh baked bread when you walked past. After a walk around the village we went onto Harestanes Country Park. On the way here we passed a viaduct, we will definitely stop there on the way back to the campsite. Harestanes Country Park is a great place for children with it’s play park, café and stunning walks throughout the Teviot Valley, after a nice walk we had to stop at the café for a tasty takeaway home-baked treat, like a chocolate brownie. On the way back to the campsite we stopped off at the viaduct we saw on our way to Harestanes. And this was the magnificent Leaderfoot Viaduct, also known as the Drygrange Viaduct (Why it’s called this, I can’t find out). This one of the most striking heritage landmarks in the Scottish Borders, the 19th-century Leaderfoot Viaduct was built in 1863 to carry the Berwickshire Railway across the River Tweed just east of Melrose. It was designed by Charles Jopp and Messrs Wylie and Peddie. This was being used for filming the fifth film of Indiana Jones Raiders of the Lost Ark with Harrison Ford, but we didn’t see him. With all the midges about in Scotland, maybe they should have renamed the film Indiana Jones and the Midges of Doom. But you will see if you read on, it’s not just Scotland that gets midges...

Day Twelve (Thursday) Lauder to Kielder Camping & Caravan Park

We left Lauder and headed down back into England on the A68. Goodbye Scotland, sad to leave but we will be back one day. From the Scottish Borders back into England, we travelled into Northumberland. But before we did all that we stopped off at Old Melrose for coffee and cake, and an amazing walk down to the River Tweed. This is a little hidden gem with lots of interesting information, a cute little antiques shop, a book shop and a cafe. The Old Melrose Tea Rooms are Situated in the old Dairy Maids cottage with an antiques and book shop in the farm buildings, in the grounds of what used to be  a monastery. The monastery isn’t there anymore. From here we took a walk with an amazing view of the River Tweed and into the woods. We got back onto the A85 and drove across the border into England, took a detour along some very narrow roads and into Northumberland. We arrived at Kielder Forest Camping and Caravan Park. Met up with the lovely warden who had been e-mailing us about our stay, so it was nice to put a face to the e-mails that we had received. Very helpful warden who told us to beware of the midges. He said most people at this site go in their vans about 6pm. Thinking he was joking, but at 6pm that evening everyone packed up their chairs and locked themselves in their vans or tents. The midges were everywhere. We have never seen so many. We thought Loch Lomond was bad but this was terrible. The campsite was great, if it hadn’t been for the midges. Glad we were only here for one night. 

Campsite: Kielder Camping & Caravan Park

Day Thirteen (Friday) Kielder to Barnard's Castle

Kielder Campsite is a lovely site, but the midges were bad. We looked out over the campsite and you could see the swarm of midges. If you intend to stay at this site, check online for the best times to come to Kielder. We were moving on today & traveling into County Durham to the town of Barnard Castle, and there really is a castle. We left the campsite and travelled along the narrow winding roads past Kielder water and followed the River North Tyne and onto the A68. We stopped at Brocksbushes Fruit Farm. You can pick your own fruit here, but we went for a coffee and a bacon roll from their takeaway cafe. And it was a good place to stop and tidy the inside of the van from all those midges before we arrived at Barnard Castle Camping site. This is a lovely site with a great shower block. No press button showers here, turn them on for a long hot shower.

Campsite: Barnard's Castle Camping & Caravanning Club Site

Day Fourteen (Saturday) At Barnard's Castle

Bit of a wet day, but we went into the town of Barnard Castle today. We looked around the shops and the castle. The castle sits above the River Tees, the ruins date back to the 12th century. Barnard Castle is a lovely town. We didn’t think it would be like this, we thought it would just be a little village but it isn’t. Some nice independent shops that you don’t get in some towns these days. After a good look around and lunch, he drove into the County Durham countryside and to High Force. High Force is a waterfall on the River Tees, near Middleton-in-Teesdale, High Forces is so impressive as the waterfall plunges 21 metres into the gorge and down the rock face, a pretty woodland walk leads to this spectacular base of the falls for a great view. The walk back takes you up some steps to the edge of the Forest of Teesdale. If you look into the woods it is so dark and black, if you entered the woods you would be lost. It’s pitch black in there. You wouldn’t see in front of your face. We went back to the campsite via Middleton-in-Teesdale, a little market town and to the fish and chip shop for tea. The sign outside said they were the one of the best fish and chip takeaways in the UK, and they were right. An amazing end to the day and an amazing end to a wonderful holiday.

Day Fifteen (Sunday) Barnard's Castle to Home

We woke up to rain this morning, which isn’t very good when you have to put down an awning. A wet awning is not a good idea. But we could see the blue sky. A very peaceful campsite and a very lovely hot shower this morning. Great way to start the day and a day when we had to travel home. After breakfast the sun had come out to dry the awning. We set off from Barnard Castle onto the A66 and down to the A1 (M) at Scotch Corner. We travelled along the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the North York Moors National Park. Around the outskirts of Leeds and Sheffield, and onto the M1 with the Peak District National Park in the distance to our left. Mrs Sat Nag (Satnav) wanted to take us down the A42 and onto the M6, but we had better ideas to carry on the M1 to Leicester and come off at the M69. Down to Coventry along the A46 to Royal Leamington Spa and travel down south that way. Arriving home late afternoon. 

Home: Until our next trip